My Portuguese Peregrinations

Why is Lisbon not on the tip of everyone's tongue? As a European capital only two hours from London, I would have assumed a city with such old-world class would be a regular feature for the weekend getaway crowd. The Truth is that Lisbon is a hidden gem. For a city of less than two million, it has a buzz about it that perfectly fits the European summer scene.

The city layout and architecture throws one into a 17th century maze of narrow alleyways and steep ascents between 200 year old high-rise and miniature plaza, looking out upon the vast estuary of the River Tejo. The young university crowd gives the city an uplift to the typical Portuguese pace of life.

Always good to be travelling with old friends. Andy Carson, Jez Parker and myself brought British lad to Lisbon street party. In fact, I exaggerate, we indulged in some good old fashioned Iberian fun, enjoying a few casual drinks on the street into the early hours of the morning, joined by revelers from across Portugal and further afield, celebrating the day of San Antonio, Lisbon's patron saint. As three Brits we were slightly taken aback by the free-for-all party without the need for the obligatory police presence one associates with mass public 'fun' at home. Between late night ventures and trying to wash away a hangover surfing some intense Atlantic swell, we were kept very content.

I was not in Portugal, however, for a mere holiday, but had more serious intentions, to complete the Camino de Santiago as a pilgrim. My journey was to take me 600km north, across the border into Spain and the rural province of Gallicia. The city of Santiago has been a pilgrimage destination for over 1000 years, hosting the first ever form of travelers, who journeyed from the far corners of Europe to pay homage to St. James.

Whilst a walk of this distance was bound to be arduous, I was drawn by the opportunity to experience this original form a tourism. I was neither enthralled by grand monuments nor entertained by a myriad of distractions but the charming simplicity of walking 8 hours each day captivated the spirit. After the initial difficulties adjusting to the distance covered each day as well as the solitude experienced, I began to draw a deep satisfaction from the surrounding environment as well as appreciating the numerous chance encounters along the way. The generosity of the Portuguese people was quite overwhelming, I had oranges, bandages and socks forced upon me by strangers. Many invited me into their own homes, furnishing me with a bed for the night and offering me hearty meals and good wine. The pilgrims life although simple is one of real content, often alone but with genuine moments of warmth and community shared with locals and fellow pilgrims alike.

Whilst the image I have presented of Portugal may appear picture perfect for the average visitor. The reality shared by the Portuguese is not so rosy. Unnemploment at a personal level is markedly different that a statistic glanced at in the papers. A large proportion of those of my own generation, literally have nothing to do and it is common to find many having left for London or Brazil in search of work. The grim reality is that they may not be able to return for the next ten years or more, such are the prospects. My experience, spending the night in a homeless shelter in Coimbra illustrate that the whole population both young and old are suffering from the crisis and several just have nothing to fall back on.

The good news is that as tourists and travelers, we can support our neighbours with our wallets. A choice to visit Lisbon or Porto for a weekend break, or smaple some of the country's extensive rural tourism visiting vineyards and horse-country feeds money directly into the local economy. This country is a real hidden gem and should not be missed!